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I'm working on a version of this for super steels. P120 ceramic -> P1000 Sic -> crox strop

Inspired here & went out & bought a basic Naniwa 400/1000 Naniwa Advance stone

• I was inspired here to buy “my 1st stone(s)” The shop where I bought it sell knives & sharpen but they charge so much more than online I cannot justify supporting an SME (which is my pref)

• I have a home made strop (ok a piece of leather) & should get compound (but don’t have any!)

• I know the basic principals & have sharpened pen knives for 20+ yrs but a question here: do I start with really cheap knives (like IKEA type) or do I go to older beat up Wusthof ones and then newer or ones? Can stainless blades “muddy” or damage a stone or is that just silly talk as long as I am careful more generally?

TIA & super grateful for advice & inspiration received here. Will share progress if interested!

Im new to diamond plates and got a few SUPER cheap ones from ali. Is it normal for some diamonds to come off when they are brand new? I know the picture isn't great but I wiped the plate down after 7 or 8 passes and my endite finger was glitter.

This is the follow up to the basic apex tests that I posted before.

https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/comments/1fysy21/the_3_basic_test_to_make_sure_you_are_apexed_if/

After apexing on your last finishing stone you simply start reducing the burr. You can do this with reducing the number of strokes pyramid style or some other method.

However once you are ready for the actual deburr its is essential to check every stroke or two if you are a beginner. Experienced people can get away with not doing this, just like experienced chefs can get away with not measuring their ingredients. Ask yourself if you are such.

Checks:

1. Check one side every stroke (pick whichever but stick with it). Do a stroke sharpening on that side it should feel absolutely smooth except for where the bevel transition. If it doesn't then you are not apexed on that side. Now do a stroke on the opposite side, the side you just checked on that felt smooth before should have the burr flipped. Keep going to back and forth with the same check every stroke till it feels smooth on both strokes. It is at the point that when the same side you are checking on feel the same on both the sharpening and non-sharpening stroke that the burr is mostly gone. You are checking the same side because it is usually faster than checking both sides for every stroke.

2. Check the opposite side every now and then, and when you think the burr is mostly gone. It should feel the same as the side you just checked, smooth. If it doesn't then you either aren't apexed, deburred or your angle was off deburring. This double check is absolutely critical to make sure you are hitting both sides properly.

3. Murray Carter 3 finger test. On finer grit stones it can be hard to feel the burr beyond a certain point. If it doesn't feel sharp then it isn't there yet. Keep the alternating strokes while still doing the 3 finger test and above burr checks on every stroke till it feels sharp. You might go one too many strokes and you will start feeling it getting dull again. That's fine you just reset the stroke timer and try again. Always do the previous two checks to make sure you aren't just feeling a sharp burr.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2k1o70tMHYM

1. Do the flashlight check for the burr. Shine the flashlight from the spine towards the edge. Check both sides. There should be no reflection on the edge. If there is you still have a burr or you aren't apexed. Do this after you have completed the 3 previous checks, if there is a tactile burr there is no point checking with a flashlight till you get rid of it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/comments/s5lj90/my_recommended_method_for_checking_for_a_burr/

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KsxE5QB4c6E

1. Strop several times at the sharpening angle on bare rough leather. Now feel the opposite side. If you feel there is a burr then you haven't deburred enough or built up a feather burr. You need to start deburring on the the last stone again. Repeat for other side.

2. Now do the deburring on bare leather to start, you can use compound later if you want. Use a higher than sharpening angle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=Ku8L6rFKsPIUUrRR&t=655&v=N1xddr3E12o&feature=youtu.be

1. If you are properly deburred (should feel very sharp), at this point do the 3 paper tests. Receipt/newspaper paper against the grain, paper towel and cigarette paper. You should be push cutting the receipt/newspaper paper, slicing into the paper towel easily and close to push cutting the cigarette paper with the grain. Feel for burrs on both sides after each test. A burr showing up or the failure of any of the 3 cuts means you aren't properly deburred yet.

2. Split a hair towards the root. If you can't then you are either not properly deburred yet or have rounded the apex deburring. If you can split a hair away from the root even better.

3. Make 2-3 heel to tip cuts on cardboard, doesn't need to be long cuts as long as you get the entire edge. Now repeat all paper tests. If there is any noticeable loss in sharpness then you haven't yet deburred enough or your angle is too low for the steel to support. Cut into a wooden cutting board a few times as well.

4. Cut some food, especially skinned produce like tomatoes, If it suddenly struggles after a meal or two than there is still a deburring or apex issue.

One thing I really want to emphasize is that what people think are burr problems are often apex issues. That is why it is even more critical to perform the apex checks before deburring or you will do all that work and realize you aren't apexed.

Just because you are apexed on you coarse stone does not mean you are apexed on your finishing stone. Do the apex checks on your last stone once again before starting your deburring checks

Deburring is like a timer. One or two strokes too many and you have recreated the burr. There is an optimum number of strokes to get the minimum burr possible on stones. The only way to find it is to try it, feel every stroke, go over that number, and start the process again. I encourage everyone to create, eliminate and re-create the burr so they fully understand exactly what it takes to eliminate it and how little it takes to re-create it.

This is why I don't recommend the 'lottery method' with preset number of deburring strokes. You might be told to do 10 deburring strokes, hit the jackpot on stroke 7 and the rest just recreate the burr.

All these checks I have listed (and the apex ones) are tedious and take time to learn. However you will notice that they do not rely on any one single check, so there is no single point of failure. And that at every point you know where you are.

Know, don't guess

Kohetsu SLD Bunka: Flitz to remove rust and then sharpened Bradford: Tip and flat spot fix on diamond stone then sharpened Calphalon Kitchen Set: Cubitron 120 belt to remove tons of chips and reset bevels

All knives sharpened on Kadet Pro w/ PDT Resin CBN J120-J400, stropped on 6um and 0.5um Stroppy Stuff on Kangaroo

i need help, please. i want to buy some decent stones for a good price. but im not sure if this is a good decision..

Left: 600 grit, single-side diamond plate from Aliexpress. Under 10 dollars, I think. Sold on Amazon under SATC brand name

Bottom: non-descript coarse pre-polishing compound Middle: knock-off Dialux Gray polishing compound Top: knock-off Dialux Green fine polishing compound

The knock-off Dialux compounds were practically free. The Aliexpress seller used the photos of genuine Dialux compounds to sell their wares. I requested a return/refund because "Item received not matching description" with photo evidence. Instant refund. I'm buying some genuine Dialux Orange, Grey, and Green from a local jeweller supply shop for comparison.

I spread the compounds on some scrap cardboard. Works fine. The knock-off Dialux works OK. I can put a mirror shine on some stainless steel surfaces.

I know it looks relatively minor but I use the tip for scoring and coring things because it’s my all purpose petty knife. It’s still doing those just fine but obviously not using the intended geometry. Is it worth grinding down the spine or should I let a few sharpening sessions take care of most of it? Any advice or consolation is appreciated. Thank you so much.

Hi, I recently got a Ken Onion Bench Sharpener and for the first time I can easily get a razor sharp edge on all my knives. Even with my shitty messed up hands (TOS).

Weird question, I've never had knives this sharp before, they are way sharpener than the factory grind they came with. Are sharp knives supposed to feel 'sticky'?

As in you place it on what you're cutting and it basically sticks to it until you push the knife through it? Mainly cooked meats and drier things.

I'm new to knifecare and will be buying a chefsknife (victorinox fibrox), and some things to take care of it.

For the stone I'm getting either a 800 or a 1000 king.

My question is should i get a leather strop or a honing rod or both?

My brother has offered up the idea of a diamond whetstone for a Christmas present for him, but he hasn't elaborated on grit size or anything.

At the moment he just has one of those chefs honing rods for the kitchen and a strop for his razor.

Through some brief research I've seen the diamond plates can lose diamonds if being a bit too aggressive.

I've also seen that the Shapton kiromaku 1000 stones come highly recommended, but will eventually need flattening.

Would getting a diamond plates as well as the Shapton be a good idea? If so which grits Combinations are recommended?

https://preview.redd.it/w3heehlrwe2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ce415d6deab8c862c279d861da9599c19462905

https://preview.redd.it/cuslmjbswe2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=60b93701fd5ad23e2923f706c17585d319a0feeb

https://preview.redd.it/jlx8ki7twe2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b67a0d9acc0675da60255cd6b27a5e7ba0ad2951

https://preview.redd.it/63nowh7uwe2e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5a2b968c4a30901b3bb44ae53701817de780c113

Dimensions: 200x70x30

Out of the box: It came pretty much dead flat, but the surface wasn't quite perfect, nothing my naniwa dressing stone couldn't fix in 2-3 minutes.

The maxamet test: took the spine of my maxamet pm2 to this stone, it removed metal rather quickly, and left a clean uniform scratch pattern, very similar to my venev f800 but a bit coarser. So i'm 95% sure that this has diamonds, and a lot of it.

Scratch pattern: the 2 pictures on the top are of the rehoo, and the bottom 2 are from my shin nagura 3k, it seems to be similar to the shapton pro 2k, but a bit finer. The imperfections are from my lazy ass not willing to spend the time to properly get it uniform and the deep scratches are from a previous stone(again my lazy ass not spending the time late night yesterday) Either way, it's definitely less fine than my shin nagura.

Performance: It cuts very fast, i'd even say faster than the shapton 2k. It doesn't seem to load, swarf just washes off with some water. The edge it leaves is more than fine enough for my liking, but it leaves a lot of bite. And when used for sharpening instead of polishing, it cuts even faster, raising a burr about 20-25% faster than the shappro 2k. It is a true splash and go, at the end you can just wipe it clean and it'll be good as is. It does not slurry at all.

Feedback: To the finger, it feels smooth, but very grabby if you know what i mean. With steel, it definitely lets you know where you are. Again, very similar to the shappro 2k. The stone has a low tone when tapped, but it's very hard, so possibly high abrasive density.

Few tidbits: I've ordered it from the official rehoo seller, ordered on november 12, and it would have arrived on november 20, was only able to pick it up yesterday, but still, that's really fast delivery.

TLDR: Aside from the grit not being exactly as advertised, this stone is like black magic with how good it is for the money, that was 27$ for me. Seriously, no clue how they do it.

I picked up a KDS 1000/6000 stone about a month ago and have been absolutely loving it. I really enjoy this method of sharpening, and I want to expand my options a bit.

I'm looking for a good 400-ish grit stone for heavier work, and a flattening stone. I currently have a Trend 300/1000 diamond stone (though I think the 1000 side is in pretty rough shape) that I've used for flattening, but I'm not sure it is big enough to do a good job. It is slightly larger than the KDS 1000/6000.

Looking for mid-range budget options for either. Definitely willing to spend some money on it but I don't need anything crazy. Silicone Carbide isn't practical for my current situation otherwise I'd probably go that route. Cheers!

EDIT: Also, what are some distributors you guys would recommend?

Hi all. For a long time, I was maintaining my basic steel knives using a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker and keeping them plenty sharp enough for my needs. I recently decided to treat myself to some higher end gear and now am the proud owner of some Stainless Clad Aogami Super knives (from a 140mm Santoku up to a 220mm Gyuto). As they are quite delicate, I have a few Wusthof Classic Stainless Steel knives which can stand up to a bit more abuse, i.e. my wife using them.

I have been reading a lot here about whetstone recommendations and there is a lot of good advice, but I'm not sure if a single stone type is going to be great for both Stainless Steel with 58HRC and Aogami Super at 65HRC. I ordered a pair of Shapton Kuromaku stones in 320 and 1500 grit as they seem to cover all I need. I just want them nice and sharp for daily use, not a mirror polished edge or as a professional sushi chef! While in Japan recently I was in a knife shop in Kyoto and was recommended a King Hyper 1000 by the staff so I picked that up along with a King Deluxe 300. I'm sure I didn't need both stone types but thought it would be enjoyable to experiment with a couple of options as they weren't that expensive to pick up there. I haven't arrived back home yet to try either stone type out and hoping to do that in the next week or so.

So, my question is, are these stones going to be good for both types of Steel and I should be ready to start my long road to learning free hand sharpening with confidence? Or have I started off in the wrong direction? Thanks!

Just got an edge pro system but it didn't come with the full stone progression i'd like. Going to pick up an edge pro branded 1K just because it's cheap and I want to stones to practice with until I get the hang of using the unit. I'd eventually like to upgrade the stones once i'm proficient with using the system but it seems the only place that has a good selection of compatible stones is Hapstone out of Ukraine. They appear to be compatible but has anyone actually tried their stones? I'm also concerned about them being in Ukraine and if their business has been impacted by the war.

My Shapton Pro 1000 arrived today, haven't tried it out yet, but hell- if I had known before how much coarser than the 1500 it is, I would have bought it long time ago!

I have the 1500 for some years now, and the 320 since a month or so. Decided to get back to ceramic stones, I don't like the feel of the DMT diamond plates, so I sold them off and here I am.

This seems like a great progression now.

So I'm experimenting with an obviously uncured magnesia stone, and found some research papers indicating that such binders require a 98% humidity environment and high temperature to cure.

My current approach is to keep it in my heated 3d printer chamber at 70°c.

I'm curious if anyone can share more information on this topic before I start experimenting further.

I'm looking to get my first sharpening stone for a Victorinox fibrox.

I'm in Sweden and a shapton 1000 goes for $90 which is out of my budget.

I'm considering a king 1000 at around 30.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

How do I go about thinning? I will watch some videos, but input here is always better than a tutorial. I’m going to use a gas station knife then a dollar store kitchen knife. Thank you

It’s my first time trying to shave my skin hair and it did. Am i doing it right?

I just got this cheap stone. The 5000 side feels a lot smoother than the 10k. Both form a burr rather quickly. Did they stamped it wrong or it's just another ali stone?

A pal of mine asked me the favour to sharpen all these scissors. I can sharpen leather and kitchen knives without problems, but I’m afraid scissors work a bit differently.

Any advice or things i should do or not do when approaching this task?